Keys & Mechanical

Yes — most listings include a "Keys" field showing whether keys were present at intake. If it's marked as not having keys, you should plan for the cost and time of sourcing a replacement, which varies a lot depending on whether the vehicle uses a basic mechanical key or a programmed key fob.

A dealership for that make is the most reliable source, especially for vehicles with programmed key fobs or immobilizer chips, since they can cut and program a key using the VIN. Independent locksmiths who specialize in automotive keys can often do the same for less. For very basic mechanical-key vehicles, a standard locksmith can sometimes cut a key by lock code or by re-keying the ignition entirely.

You have three main paths: a franchise dealership for that brand (most expensive but most reliable, especially for modern fobs), an automotive locksmith (often cheaper, especially for older or simpler vehicles), or, for very basic vehicles, re-keying the ignition and door locks entirely with a new matched set. Costs and turnaround time vary significantly by make, model, and key technology, so it's worth a quick call to a local locksmith before bidding if key replacement is a dealbreaker for you.

Check the dedicated "Keys" field on the listing page, which is recorded during intake at the storage facility. If it's not clearly shown, contacting the auction's support team with the lot or stock number is the fastest way to confirm before you commit to a bid.

The listing description usually lists key options and trim level where available, and a vehicle history report (using the VIN) will often show the original build sheet, including factory-installed options. A Carfax-style report is generally better at showing title and accident history than a full options list, so for a definitive equipment list, decoding the VIN through the manufacturer or a VIN-decoder tool tends to be more accurate.

Decoding the VIN is usually your best bet for a definitive factory options list, since most manufacturers encode trim and major options into the VIN itself. Free VIN-decoder tools online can pull this for most makes; for some brands, the dealership can also look up the original build sheet directly from the VIN.

A "gasoline engine" designation simply confirms the vehicle runs on standard gasoline/petrol fuel rather than diesel, hybrid, or fully electric power. It's a fuel-type filter field, so you can search or filter listings by it directly if you want to rule out diesel and electric vehicles from your results.

Assume it will need work. Flood exposure on a motorcycle commonly affects the electrical system, carburetor or fuel injection components, and internal engine parts if water reached the cylinders — even if it appears to run at intake, corrosion and electrical issues often surface later. Budget for a full mechanical and electrical check before relying on it, rather than assuming the run-status field tells the whole story.

It depends on the damage type, but common issues across salvage and damaged listings include engine or transmission failure, electrical faults, suspension or steering damage from a collision, and corrosion from flood exposure. Because listings report a category rather than a diagnosis, the only way to know the specific mechanical issue on a given vehicle is an in-person or third-party inspection.